Cartier watches: from the Santos and the Tank to the Crash
The Cotswold Jeweller · 14 October 2026
Cartier is famous as a jeweller, but it also designed some of the most important wristwatches ever made. Its genius was shape.
The jeweller
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. Under his grandsons, it became jeweller to royalty: King Edward VII is said to have called Cartier “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers”.
1904: the Santos
Louis Cartier designed the Santos for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to read the time without taking his hands off the controls. Its square case with exposed screws is one of the earliest men's wristwatch designs. See the Santos watches in our shop.
1917: the Tank
The Tank was designed in 1917 and is said to be inspired by the tanks of the First World War seen from above, with its side rails (brancards) as the tracks. It has been made in many versions since, from the Tank Louis Cartier to the Tank Française. See the Tank watches in our shop.
Shapes and surprises
- Tortue (1912): a tortoise-shaped case. See a Tortue.
- Crash (1967): a melted, distorted case created by Cartier London, now one of the most collectable Cartier watches.
- Panthère (1983): a supple gold bracelet watch, named after the panther long associated with the house. See a Panthère.
- Ballon Bleu (2007): a round case with its blue cabochon crown held in an arc. See a Ballon Bleu.
Why collectors love vintage Cartier
Many Cartier models use quartz movements, which makes them easy to live with, while vintage pieces made in limited numbers, particularly in gold, are increasingly sought after. Browse all Cartier watches in our shop.
