Rolex launched a new watch in Milan on 15 September 2026, outside the usual spring calendar. The Perpetual Padellone brings back the name of one of the most loved vintage Rolex models, with a modern calendar that's entirely its own.
Why ‘Padellone’?
In Italian, padellone means a large frying pan. Italian collectors gave the name to the ref. 8171, a 38mm triple-calendar moon phase Rolex made from about 1949 to 1953, because of its broad, flat case. Estimates suggest only around 1,200 to 1,400 were made, in steel, yellow gold and pink gold, and good ones are now serious auction pieces.
- Most 8171s sold in 2025 and 2026 made roughly $90,000 to $160,000, according to EveryWatch records.
- One exceptional steel example made $635,000 at Phillips in December 2025.
- Its successor, the ref. 6062, has gone higher still: one sold for $6.2 million at Monaco Legend in 2025.
The new watch
The Padellone joins the 1908 in Rolex's dressier Perpetual family. It's 39mm across and 12.2mm thick, with a fluted bezel, a sapphire display back and 50 metres of water resistance.
- An instantaneous annual calendar: the day, month and date all change together at midnight. Thanks to Rolex's patented system it needs setting just once a year, at the end of February.
- A date hand with a small crescent-moon tip, rather than a date window.
- A moon phase in blue enamel with meteorite moons, a nod to the 8171.
- Calibre 7190, a new automatic movement beating at 5Hz (36,000 vph), developed from the movement in the Land-Dweller, with about 66 hours of power reserve and Rolex's ±2 seconds a day standard.
Calibre 7190, with its gold oscillating weight
References and prices
| Reference | Version | US price | Swiss price |
|---|---|---|---|
| m53505-0002 | Everose gold, white dial, brown alligator | $59,000 | CHF 48,500 |
| m53506-0002 | Platinum, ice blue dial, black alligator | $66,200 | CHF 55,000 |
| m53505-0003 | Everose gold on the Settimo bracelet | $72,800 | CHF 60,800 |
Launch prices as reported by Hodinkee (US) and Revolution (Switzerland, before VAT). UK prices hadn't been published at the time of writing.
Everose gold, white dial
Platinum, ice blue dial
Everose gold on the Settimo bracelet
1908 in platinum, ref. 52506
1908 in yellow gold, ref. 52508
Our view
Rolex's last moon phase, the Cellini Moonphase of 2017, was quietly discontinued when the 1908 arrived. The Padellone is a far more ambitious watch. Like every new Rolex in precious metal, expect waiting lists. If you'd like help finding one, or a vintage 8171, let us know.
